North Cascades near Mt Shuksan
Three Fingers
Summit Elevation: 6,854 feet
Trip Length: 1 Day
Route:
Goats Flats / South Peak / Tin Pan Gap
Difficulty: Grade 2, 35° Snow
Elevation Gain: 3970 feet
Roundtrip Distance: 17 miles
Date: September 9, 2001
Goat Flats
Goat Flats
Small Tarn
Three Fingers from "Tin Pan Gap" Traversing the "Quest Alb" Glacier
At ther base of the ladders
Ascending the ladders to the summit
Exposure off of the North Face
Using the ropes to get down to the ladders
Heading back to "Tin Pan Gap"
The Sound of Music
 
Three Fingers..........what a mountain. Living up in the northend of Seattle, I had my eye on this pristine peak from the summits of Pilchuck and Dickerman for a few months. After our climbs on Rainier, one of our climbing group instructors decided to have a quick one day ascent of the South Peak. Needless to say, Alison and I were all over it. Dick thought we should all get an early start, which meant to meet at the trailhead at 5am. It worked for me, as I love to get done before dark, at least most of the time.

Sunday 3:30am
BEEP!, BEEP!, BEEP!........SLAM!
The clock gets a slap, and I walk zombie style to the coffee machine. Alison is quite distressed, after all this is not the kind of start she likes (early morning that is). We awake, chug coffee and make our way to Lake Stevens. We pick up our crew and travel the Mountain Loop Highway towards the trailhead. After almost 20 miles on forest service road #41 (Tupso Pass) we finally reached our destination. I had heard stories about this trail, and they are all true. Roots, mud, puddles, roots, mud, and more roots. The trail can really beat you up, and getting scratched by branches and wrestling with shrubs is just part of the hike, so be prepared.

During the first few miles the trail gradually ascends towards Saddle Lake. Make sure that you take the left fork, as that leads to Goat Flats, and the right fork leads to the campsites on Saddle Lake. In a couple more miles you reach Goat Flats that has wide open meadows and incredible views. From there, continue on to Tin Can Gap (6400 feet). From Tin Can Gap we donned our ice axes and crampons and got on the Quest Alb Glacier. It was solid ice, and the exposure looked like it could be fatal - The traverse across it was pretty hairy, as my ice axe did not do too much good as it sank about 1/4 inch into the ice. Once on top of the glacier we descended back down onto the trail that had melted out and continued on until we had to get back on the glacier. It was crampons on, crampons off, crampons on, crampons off - that lasted quite a bit until we got around the opposite side of the ridge where we ascended a short trail that lead to the last snowfield. After a short and easy summit scramble, the infamous "ladders" are reached. We all met up at the ladders and went up 2-3 at a time.

Once at the top of the last ladder there is a large rope that you can use to gain your balance, but do not rely on it since it is old. Once at the summit we were greeted by a group that had spent the night there, so we made our way through the lookout to the dirt deck that was on the opposite side. The views here are astounding on a clear day. If you are scared of heights this is the not place for you, as there is a sheer drop off on this side that drops almost 2000 feet . We arrived at the lookout in just about 5 hours, and the sun had really taken alot of energy from me.

The descent is long and arduous. I forgot my Gu, so I was kind of wilting away slowly. We did not put on our crampons for the traverse back across the Quest Alb, even though I wish I had in certain spots. Once back at Tin Can Gap we made our way down the trail, and once past Goat Flats it seemed like that the trail goes up and down the entire way out.........