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Forbidden
Peak : East Ridge Direct (Attempt
#2)  Summit Elevation: 8815 Feet Region/Location: North
Cascades / Cascade Pass Trip Length:
1 Day Route: Boston
Basin Trail Difficulty:
Streunous, 5.8+, Grade III Elevation Gain: 5615 Feet Roundtrip Distance:
8-9 Miles? Trailhead Elevation: 3200 Feet Date: September
1, 2003 Movie:
"You are Forbidden"Photos by: Scott Harder |
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I have to say that Boston Basin and the surrounding area is one of the most
picturesque alpine wonderlands known to Washington State. I had always thought
that Cascade Pass and the Sahale Arm was awesome, but the Forbidden Peak
area is full of granite and better views of the surrounding area. It was
hard not to stop as we approached the upper basin because the views just
kept getting better and better. Mount Tormet first comes into view, and
then we saw Forbidden and the range towards Sharkfin Tower and Boston and
Sahale Peaks. This was our second
attempt due to our first attempt had us abort
due to thunderstorms. This time it was just Dan and I, so we left earlier
and kept a faster pace up the trail. After scrambling up
some granite slabs and vegetables, we gained the Forbidden Glacier for a
short ascent to gain the lower east ridge. Since this was later in the season,
there was little snow left in several gullies where we had to climb up 3rd
and 4th class sandboxes. Once we reached the lower gendarme and the start
of the climb we got our gear together. I was bummed out because all I had
were my La Sportiva "Miuras" (Technical and not comfortable rock
shoe) instead of my 5.10 "Ascents" that I had lost on our previous
attempt a month earlier. I then found out that Dan had only brought Quickdraws
with no double runners or anything else, just short dogbones. This meant
that our rope drag was going to be hideous...... Dan decided to ropegun
the first pitch and then we would alternate every other pitch thereafter.
The first [itch went fast and then it was my turn. I got the pitch that
included the scooting with a leg on either side fo the ridge with the exposure
of the glaciers hundreds of feet below. Exhillarating does not do the feeling
justice. The 3rd pitch seemed to be the wildest if my memory serves me right.
Dan led out and then I followed. What seemed to bethe most difficult climbing
was the most exposed and freakish. All I remember is traversing the south
side of the ridge and having to use some blocky underclings and muscle my
way to Dan's belay (which was him lodged into a large crack up to his waist).
I led the next pitch that seemed to be dirty and chossy. Once at the top
I set up a belay since there was no where else to go, so we thought this
must have been where we have to rappell to get back on the ridge. The belay
anchor I had was questionable as well as the backup, and we could not find
the rappell route. It seemed crazy to just rap down ito thin air since we
could not tell what was below any part of the ridge that stopped right where
we were at. We figured we should have done the ledge traverses instead of
the direct route, but we were very tired, drained physically and mentally,
and then decided to call it since our daylight was running out and we were
not feeling up to it. All we had to do now was rap the infamous rappell
route that is know for it's loose and chossy ledges that aren't sound enough
to protect, but 3rd and 4th class with fatal results with any mistakes.
Once we made 3 rappels we began the arduous traverse back towards the start
of the climb at the first gendarme. It was not fun and not enjoyable. I
was happy to get out of my tight fitting rock shoes and get on more comfortable
shoes nonetheless. The hike back down
involved some retracing our steps and then losing them here and there. We
tried to find a good rap station many times so that we could avoid having
to downclimb the 3rd and 4th class sandboxes but we never did. Back on the
trail we started to get delirious and just wanted to get to the car. Dan
introduced me to Vladamir along the way and I could not get enough. As they
say in Russia, "Our glaciers melt off with fine Vodka". A return
trip must be planned, since the route is classic and not as crowded as the
more classic west ridge route. Directions: Drive State Route 20 (the North Cascades Hwy), E or W, to the town of Marblemount. At the east end of town where the Hwy makes a 90 degree left turn heading north, drive east onto Cascade River Road. The road is paved for approximately 3 miles and then turns into gravel. Continue following the road to approx MP 22 and find a small trailhead on the left. Maps: USGS Forbidden Peak,
Cascade Pass Green Trails: # 80
(Cascade Pass), #48 (Diablo Dam)Web Links: Last
Attempt SummitPost.com MtnPhil.com Bodenner.net AlpineDave.com Movie: "You are Forbidden"Permits: A Northwest Forest
Pass is required for each vehicle parked at the trailhead. Permits are a must
for camping overnight in Boston Basin (and they are awesome tent sites)
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