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Sahale Peak  Summit Elevation: 8680 feet (#
37 Highest Peak in Washington) Actual Highpoint: 6900 feet Trip Length:
2 Days Route: Cascade Pass/Sahale Glacier Difficulty: Grade 1 Glacier / 5th Class Rock Elevation Gain: 5100 feet Roundtrip Distance:
11.4 Miles Total (To Cascade Pass RT) Date:June 17-18, 2006 Photos by: Scott Harder |
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Pushing the bikes up the CRR |
Nearing Cascade Pass |
The Rescue |
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More Rescue |
Sunset |
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Sunset |
Alpenglow on Brent |
Lower Sahale Arm |
The Triad |
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The Triad |
Sahale Arm and Peak |
Mount Buckner |
Cody in true alpinist form |
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Best coordinated outfits |
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Heading back from Cascade Pass |
Cody takes a nap |
Brent is contemplating |
...and is taking photos |
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Brent is ready to ride |
Snow coverage from the trailhead |
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| Photos by: Brent Wozow |
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Cody contemnplates |
Scott is happy withn his General Tso's Chicken |
Scott takes an evening run |
Cody and his standing glissade |
Camp at Cascade Pass |
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Scott and some corn
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More corn............ |
and more....... |
A little air of a little lip |
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| Photos by: Ed Miller |
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The Triplets |
Eldorado Peak |
Scott skis down with Elisha's Pack via runner |
Sahale Glacier and summit |
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| Photos by: Pete Litwin |
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Scott & Cody make their way up the lower arm |
The group before we push our bikes |
Deer |
Can you see my group up there? |
Scott is tired of hauling the skis |
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| Scott skis down from the pass | |||||||||||
Saturday June 17, 2006
This trip was a graduation climb for some students in the OSAT glacier course, and I figured it would be a good trip to bring the skis. I was able to get under 40lbs with my new BD Skylight Tent (Kicks Ass) and a little under 60 with the skis, boots, and skins (no need for the skins the entire trip).We left Everett at 5am and got to Marblemount around 7am and got our permit. The road was still closed, but we all brought our bikes to push to the trailhead. An overnight pack with skis and boots on a bike is quite a challenge going uphill on that steep paved road, so I did walk most of it. It drizzled and we were very socked in most of the day, with the weak high pressure system never making it's way into the Cascade River Valley. Since most of the students were newbies, we hiked the trail to Cascade Pass. No bears this time, only a young deer that was very curious. Once at the pass, we started to ascend the partially melted out switchbacks and then make a b-line straight for the lower Sahale Arm once we reached continuous snow. Once of the students was on the steeper slope and took a fall, but arrested quickly, but then slipped again and started a very quick and uncontrollable slide down the slope. Her heavy pack kept her face down, but she could not regain control of her ice axe until about another 25 yards on the steep and sugary snow that was very fast. By the time she got her axe it was too late and she landed in a pile of talus and then shouted for help shortly thereafter. It was at that time I knew the trip had been compromised. We all ran down to her and began assesing the situation, getting her warm, checking for injuries. It was mostly internal brusing with a twisted ankle. We then decided we had to make camp and the only place to do so was 500 feet below us at Cascade Pass. She was unable to put weight on her one foot, so we placed a harness on her and a 30m rope. 2 guys were behind her in a V Formation, and 2 in front of her to get her down the slope. I was in charge of her pack, which I tied a long runner to and pushed it downhill, sideslipping the slope with my skis. Several times the pack wanted to take me down the hill very fast, so it was arduous work. Once at the pass we got her in a tent and made comfortable. It was still drizzling, so the attitude of the group slowly fizzled out. Around 9pm, the sun came out on the west side of the pass and allowed us to finally see some peaks (HLP/The Triad/Eldorado/Torment). We shot some pictures, and then I decided to hit some of the corn on the arm just south of Cascade Pass on the way up to the Ptarmidgan Traverse. The slope was awesome, and the views kicked ass with the alpenglow effects. We all slept very well that night, and awoke to much better views the next morning, although none of us felt like heading up to Sahale that morning (now regreted). Instead, we all hiked up to the very top of the arm south of the pass and got great view of Sahale and the other Cascade Pass peaks. The ski descent was awesome, creamy corn... We packed up and started the descent. Everyone in the group took one or two things from Elisha so that her pack could weigh next to nothing, which really helped her descent. Down at the trailhead, everyone was very stoked to have the bikes there (except Cody, who rode a flat tire all the way down to MP21). The other bummer was that when we got back to the Eastmont Park N Ride at x189, Caleb said "Dude, where's my Car?". It was stolen! 2 days later it was recovered, big bummer though, especially since he had just moved down to Hood River. Beta: Situated in the scenic Cascade Pass region of the North Cascades, Sahale
Peak is known for it's easy access, and incredible views. This is also
one of the easiest glacier climbs available in the North Cascades, and
a great intro to mountaineering. Surrounded by such
legendary peaks like Forbidden, Eldorado, and Johannesberg Peaks. Sahale
Peak tops out at 8700 feet, and is guarded by the Sahale Glacier. After
a short hike up to Cascade Pass (4 miles), we headed up towards the Sahale
Arm and enjoyed some awesome views on our approach to the Sahale Glacier.
There are plenty of places to camp here, but they are first come first
served, and these infamous rock wall campsites can really help keep the
wind down if you stay the night. Once at the base
of the glacier, crampons and an ice axe are generally recommended in the
spring/summer, depending on conditions. The glacier is a short hike, with
only a few crevasses that actually intersect the path towards the peak.
It is also recommended to rope up for this section, a fall and slide could
put you at the bottom of a crevasse. After a short talus
and choss scramble to the base of the peak, follow the east gully to gain
the summit pyramid. This is rated 4th Class to 5.0 rock climbing. The
gully is fully exposed, with a fall being fatal. Wear a helmet to protect
yourself from other climbers dumping choss on your noggin. The upper section
takes #1 camalots very nicely in diagonal cracks. Rap off the south face
and scramble back down to the glacier. Directions: Take Interstate I5 North to Hwy 20 East. Drive the North Cascades Highway (SR-20) to Marblemount. Follow the Cascade River Road (FS-15) east about 23 miles to the Cascade Pass trailhead at road's end. In early season, the last 2 miles of the road may be gated. Maps: USGS: Cascade Pass Green Trails: #80
Cascade PassWeb Links: Washington
Trails Association: Northwest Explorer Article (.PDF) ClimbingWashington.com Sahale
Glacier Route Topo A
nice shot of a camp site North
Cascades National Park Bob
Boltons incredible photos References Cascade Alpine Guide
- Fred Beckey Hiking the North
Cascades Selected Climbs in
the Cascades - Jim Nelson |
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