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Sahale Peak  Summit Elevation: 8680 feet (#
37 Highest Peak in Washington) Trip Length:
9 hours RT Route: Cascade Pass/Sahale Glacier Difficulty: Grade 1 Glacier / 5th Class Rock Elevation Gain: 5100 feet Roundtrip Distance:
13 miles RT Date: July 16, 2006 Photos by: Scott Harder / Ed Miller |
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Saturday July 16, 2006
This trip was a makeup from the June 16th climb. This time we decided to make it a day trip since the road was open to the pass, plus there were only 3 of us, so we could go as fast as we wanted to, or could. We left the trailhead around 8am and got to Cascade Pass around 915am. That pace mostly killed me, but we kept a moderate pace up the arm to the Sahale Glacier base camp. Ed was supposed to meet us at the trailhead but he went to high camp the night before. Once at high camp a pair told us that he went up to the summit (Just like Ed, RIP). We roped up and headed up the glacier which showed no crevasses at this time, just impressions. We decided to climb the summit pyramid sans rope and met Ed on the summit. I ate pizza and we all chatted. I threw the rope down and we rapped down the south side w/o incident. We boogied down the glacier, glissade the last long slope, and shuffled down the arm and down Cascade Pass to the parking lot in 9 hours, 15 minutes round trip. This was the same amount of time it took me 3 years ago, but we ran down the trail but also pitched out the rock section which really slowe us down. We all met at Cascadia Pizza after Raef lost his phone (found it in my car weeks later). Ed must have driven 90mph to catch up with us since he took pictures along the trail on the way out. Beta: Situated in the scenic Cascade Pass region of the North Cascades, Sahale
Peak is known for it's easy access, and incredible views. This is also
one of the easiest glacier climbs available in the North Cascades, and
a great intro to mountaineering. Surrounded by such
legendary peaks like Forbidden, Eldorado, and Johannesberg Peaks. Sahale
Peak tops out at 8700 feet, and is guarded by the Sahale Glacier. After
a short hike up to Cascade Pass (4 miles), we headed up towards the Sahale
Arm and enjoyed some awesome views on our approach to the Sahale Glacier.
There are plenty of places to camp here, but they are first come first
served, and these infamous rock wall campsites can really help keep the
wind down if you stay the night. Once at the base
of the glacier, crampons and an ice axe are generally recommended in the
spring/summer, depending on conditions. The glacier is a short hike, with
only a few crevasses that actually intersect the path towards the peak.
It is also recommended to rope up for this section, a fall and slide could
put you at the bottom of a crevasse. After a short talus
and choss scramble to the base of the peak, follow the east gully to gain
the summit pyramid. This is rated 4th Class to 5.0 rock climbing. The
gully is fully exposed, with a fall being fatal. Wear a helmet to protect
yourself from other climbers dumping choss on your noggin. The upper section
takes #1 camalots very nicely in diagonal cracks. Rap off the south face
and scramble back down to the glacier. Directions: Take Interstate I5 North to Hwy 20 East. Drive the North Cascades Highway (SR-20) to Marblemount. Follow the Cascade River Road (FS-15) east about 23 miles to the Cascade Pass trailhead at road's end. In early season, the last 2 miles of the road may be gated. Maps: USGS: Cascade Pass Green Trails: #80
Cascade PassWeb Links: 1 Month earlier attempt Washington
Trails Association: Northwest Explorer Article (.PDF) ClimbingWashington.com Sahale
Glacier Route Topo A
nice shot of a camp site North
Cascades National Park Bob
Boltons incredible photos References Cascade Alpine Guide
- Fred Beckey Hiking the North
Cascades Selected Climbs in
the Cascades - Jim Nelson | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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