ClimbWashington.com: Static Point Rock Climbing

One hour north and east of Seattle lies Static Point, a 1000 foot high, low angle granite dome. After driving through about 1 mile of slide alder up the forest road to get to the parking area, I found out that I needed a wax job more than I ever have. There is a huge tree down about 6/10 mile up this road as well, but I was able to get under it in a 4WD with a roof rack. From there the trail description says to "go to the 1st gully and head up and look for the trail that will miraculously materialize". Well that 1st gully takes you nowhere except to slick boulders and a waterfall. The key word that was used in the book was that you would be able to see the granite dome above, which we did not, but it was the 1st rock gully, so we proceeded, but the wrong one. We came down and followed the trail for much longer than we thought could possibly be correct, since the book says to follow the trail for .6 miles, and we had been walking for quite awhile now. We finally hit the second gully and were able to barely see the granite above us through the trees.

So we headed up the gully, full of boulders, slippery tree logs, and then came to the base of a slick slab that towered above us - so all we could do was go up the mud/dirt slope of the canyon for about 100 feet to reach the ridgeline. We were able to follow this trail all the way to the base of the first set of climbs. Since another party reached the route literally minutes before us, we had to abandon going up "Online" (III 5.10b) and head up Rightline (II 5.10a) instead, yet it was not in Smoots book, and the other party had the "Sky Valley Rock" book so we were able to check out the topo in their book. Remember to bring 2 ropes for the rap down, as we fell 10 feet short of the belay stations with a 60m rope. This made it much more interesting.

In a nutshell, from the parking area, it is a brisk 25 minute hike to the 2nd gully (about 15 small gullies in between), and after the last gully, walk across it and continue on the road for 1/4 block, where a cairn on top of a large pipe mark a trail that follows the gullies right side, something we only took advantage of on the descent. The hike up this trail is very reminscent of Mailbox Peak, steep, rooted, and a little hard to follow in spots. About 25 minutes to the 1st routes from the 2nd gully. Expect the approach to be at least 1 hour, instead of the quoted 20 minutes that I have read from other sources, and that's keeping a 2-3 mph pace.

As far as the route goes, (once you find the right route that is), it is runout. One bolt for the first pitch of 120 feet (5.7) to the anchors. 2nd pitch is 5.7 and has 1 bolt, with a spot or 2 for a small cam or nut. Pitch 3 got a little more difficult, I think it was 5.8, but had some good chicken heads. Pitch 4 and 5 were more difficult, and had some serious runout for Adrian (Ropegun for all pitches). On Pitch 5, the 2nd and 3rd bolts had 2 hangers side by side, about 2 inches apart. Top of pitch 5 meets up with Online, or it might meet at the top of pitch 4. You can climb low 5th class climbing to get to the summit, but I hear it's not worth it. Double rope rappel is a necessity, or else you'll waste time like Adrain and I did. . Photos >>

Directions: From Seattle take I-5 North to Hwy 2 East or I405 to 522 East to Monroe. Travel to Sultan and then turn left on Olney Road to the SE side of Spada Reservoir.
Map: USGS
Trail Conditions: Climbers trail...
Web References:
WashingtonClimbers.org
Chuck Spieker
ClimbingWashington.com (Jeff Smoot)
Rock n' Road: Washington
Bodenner.net
Mike's Web site

Additional Info :
- Climbers are asked to sign in as they enter the area, where there is a kiosk and bathroom along side the main access road about 13 miles from Highway 2. We urge climbers to sign in to help document climbers' use of the area.
- Guidebooks: Sky Valley Rock, Select Cascade Climbs Vol 2

Static Point Route: "The Right Line" Difficulty: Grade II, 5.10a Roundtrip Distance: 4 miles Date: October 1, 2002 Region/Location: Sultan, Hwy 2 Corridor Photos by: Scott Harder [Click here to view the shutterfly photo collection]
One hour north and east of Seattle lies Static Point, a 1000 foot high, low angle granite dome. After driving through about 1 mile of slide alder up the forest road to get to the parking area, I found out that I needed a wax job more than I ever have. There is a huge tree down about 6/10 mile up this road as well, but I was able to get under it in a 4WD with a roof rack. From there the trail description says to "go to the 1st gully and head up and look for the trail that will miraculously materialize". Well that 1st gully takes you nowhere except to slick boulders and a waterfall. The key word that was used in the book was that you would be able to see the granite dome above, which we did not, but it was the 1st rock gully, so we proceeded, but the wrong one. We came down and followed the trail for much longer than we thought could possibly be correct, since the book says to follow the trail for .6 miles, and we had been walking for quite awhile now. We finally hit the second gully and were able to barely see the granite above us through the trees. So we headed up the gully, full of boulders, slippery tree logs, and then came to the base of a slick slab that towered above us - so all we could do was go up the mud/dirt slope of the canyon for about 100 feet to reach the ridgeline. We were able to follow this trail all the way to the base of the first set of climbs. Since another party reached the route literally minutes before us, we had to abandon going up "Online" (III 5.10b) and head up Rightline (II 5.10a) instead, yet it was not in Smoots book, and the other party had the "Sky Valley Rock" book so we were able to check out the topo in their book. Remember to bring 2 ropes for the rap down, as we fell 10 feet short of the belay stations with a 60m rope. This made it much more interesting. In a nutshell, from the parking area, it is a brisk 25 minute hike to the 2nd gully (about 15 small gullies in between), and after the last gully, walk across it and continue on the road for 1/4 block, where a cairn on top of a large pipe mark a trail that follows the gullies right side, something we only took advantage of on the descent. The hike up this trail is very reminscent of Mailbox Peak, steep, rooted, and a little hard to follow in spots. About 25 minutes to the 1st routes from the 2nd gully. Expect the approach to be at least 1 hour, instead of the quoted 20 minutes that I have read from other sources, and that's keeping a 2-3 mph pace. As far as the route goes, (once you find the right route that is), it is runout. One bolt for the first pitch of 120 feet (5.7) to the anchors. 2nd pitch is 5.7 and has 1 bolt, with a spot or 2 for a small cam or nut. Pitch 3 got a little more difficult, I think it was 5.8, but had some good chicken heads. Pitch 4 and 5 were more difficult, and had some serious runout for Adrian (Ropegun for all pitches). On Pitch 5, the 2nd and 3rd bolts had 2 hangers side by side, about 2 inches apart. Top of pitch 5 meets up with Online, or it might meet at the top of pitch 4. You can climb low 5th class climbing to get to the summit, but I hear it's not worth it. Double rope rappel is a necessity, or else you'll waste time like Adrain and I did. . Photos >> Directions: From Seattle take I-5 North to Hwy 2 East or I405 to 522 East to Monroe. Travel to Sultan and then turn left on Olney Road to the SE side of Spada Reservoir. Map: USGS Trail Conditions: Climbers trail... Web References: WashingtonClimbers.org Chuck Spieker ClimbingWashington.com (Jeff Smoot) Rock n' Road: Washington Bodenner.net Mike's Web site Additional Info : - Climbers are asked to sign in as they enter the area, where there is a kiosk and bathroom along side the main access road about 13 miles from Highway 2. We urge climbers to sign in to help document climbers' use of the area. - Guidebooks: Sky Valley Rock, Select Cascade Climbs Vol 2