 So is it Thompson, or is
it Thomson?
That has yet to be revealed, but I do believe the correct spelling is Thomson.
John and myself teamed up with Eric and Sergio to do a one day ascent of the
West Ridge. Although the research I had done on this peak said it was a 2 day
climb, we found some secret information about a shorter approach to gain the PCT. We left the trailhead around 7am or so after correctly finding
the unofficial parking lot. We walked an overgrown logging road for 1/4 mile
or so and then went cross country, upwards and onward towards the PCT.
It was easy bushwhacking,
if that is what someone would call it. We reached the PCT in record time, shaving
off 3 miles and 1100 vertical feet in less than 45 minutes. We approached the
Kendall Catwalk and I was quite impressed with some of the views that were attained
at such a different aspect of the Snoqualmie Pass area.
We found oursleves weaving
around the Red Mountain area until we came to a steep climbers trail that ascended
straight up towards Bumblebee Pass. After grabbing a few roots to gain the upper
part of the trail, we found ourselves looking right at Mount Thomson. Sergio
and I took a short break and then descended into the basin below Thomson. We
dropped the majority of our gear at a stash spot and made our way up the left
side of the scree slope. We continued up until we reached a headwall, and then
a trail got us on a trail that hugs the upper portion of the scree slope and
traverses beneath the cliff that heads left before it goes up. The final ascent
gully was pretty chossy and loose, but the West Ridge is gained quickly and
rewarded with great views of the Snoqualmie Pass area. We made the mistake and
started to belay from the huge flat area on the ridge that is not the first
pitch. So I scrambled past all the easy stuff and John followed until we were
able to set up a belay at the base of the first true pitch after rounding a
corner. The first pitch follows a chimney system up that has a few mid fifth
class moves, but the gear is minimal.
I continued up and started
looking for the "large ledge" mentioned by Beckey and Nelson, and
then got confused when I hit a large shrub crossing. I downclimbed, looked for
another way around it, but finally grabbed a few branches,and continued climbing
until I got to the fun 5.5 dihedral moves that had some enjoyable stemming.
Turns out that I did the 1st 2 pitches in one, and wound up belaying from a
smaller ledge that was higher up than the first large ledge by the shrubs. I
belayed John up and then he took the lead out on our 2nd pitch (referred to
as the 3rd in books). A steep and exposed start leads to easier climbing and
another good belay ledge. A few fixed pieces were found along the way, as well
as some old thick cordilette that was a good belay station for the slab pitch
that came next. Really easy slab, mostly 4th class that you can stand up on
and not use your hands (often).
Although a fall would create
a nasty pendulum, it's generally really easy climbing. From here you reach a
notch and a short headwall. I belayed John as he led out this pitch that had
a few fifth class moves in the beginning that lead to really easy 3rd/4th class
climbing to the false summit. From here we unroped, and scrambled to the first
saddle, following a climbers trail that veered around a corner to the left,
and up a dihedral that had a fifth class move and then a quick jaunt up through
some heather and we were standing on the summit.
The summit provided some
excellent views of the surrounding valleys and a vantage point that one does
not see from other Snoqualmie Pass summits. We started the descent that quickly
involves some 4th class downclimbing, although there are rappel stations, they
are not necessary. After the downclimbing, it's heather benches, sandy ledges,
and a steep dirt trail that wanders down the east ridgeline. The steep trail
winds around and takes you down a screefest and back down into the basin. From
there we went back over Bumblebee Pass, and crusied the PCT to our bushwhack
junction, and down to the car a few minutes before it started to drizzle. By
the time we got to I90 it was pouring rain.
Web References:
www.sverdina.com
www.ericsbasecamp.net
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