The Tooth is the second summit of the group of peaks ascending from Denny Mountain to Chair Peak. It is a small, rocky peak that neatly resembles a canine tooth from nearly every surrounding vantage, hence the name. The Tooth is visible briefly from Interstate 90 as you drive eastbound toward Snoqualmie Pass and is unmistakable from the Snow Lake Trail. This is a very popular climb due to its proximity to the Seattle area, the fast and easy approach, the solid rock, and—to borrow a Fred Beckey term—its “distinctly alpine nature.” The peak is so accessible that some climbers make an ascent early in the day before going to work or in the evening after work. The small, flat summit area is a popular bivouac site. The Tooth’s South Buttress, one of the classic alpine rock climbs of the Cascade Range, is more often climbed than the easier route up the north ridge. The popularity of The Tooth makes it a crowded climb, so much so that the popular route resembles a sport crag on sunny summer weekends. If you don’t like waiting in line to climb a wilderness mountain route, come early or on a weekday. You may not have the mountain all to yourself, but at least you won’t have to fight the crowds. ~www.trails.com

Located in the Alpental Valley, and easily reachable from Seattle through Interstate 90. The climb of the South Face of the peak (which does resemble a big tooth with a smaller tooth --a gendarme-- in front) is fully described in Nelson-Potterfield's 'Selected Climbs in the Cascades'. It is a four pitch grade II, class 5.4 climb. There is apparently avalanche potential on the approach during winter months. ~PeakWare.com

The first ascent of The Tooth was on June 25, 1916 by Charles Hazelhurst and C. G. Morrison.
Directions: Take I90 to the West Summit Exit for Snoqualmie Pass. Turn right towards the Snoqualmie Pass ski resort and park at the Snow Lake trailhead (Alpental Lot).
Map: USGS Snoqualmie Pass
Trail Conditions: Click Here
Road Conditions: Click Here
References: Fred Beckey, Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol. 1 (The Mountaineers 1987)
Web References
- Ania Mitros
- Stephen Ramsey
- Paul Beliitz
- Ralph Bodenner
- Sverdina.com
- MountainWerks.org
- RockClimbing.com