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Vesper
Peak  Highpoint Elevation: 6214
feet / 1894 m Region/Location: Mountain Loop Trip Length:
10-12 Hours Route: North
Face "Weigelt Route" via Ledge Traverse Difficulty:
5.7 Elevation Gain: 4100 feet Roundtrip Distance:
10 Miles Trailhead Elevation: 2114 feet Date: September
28, 2003 Media: "3 Hexes &
a Nut" Photos by: Scott Harder & Craig Beaver |
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Watch
the movie, as that
sums up this trip. As we got to the first belay I asked Adrien for the rack and he said,
"I thought you had it?". He happened to have 3 Hexes and one
nut and decided to lead the entire climb with those pieces alone. I found
myself cleaning his pro, which was generally a runner draped over a weed, or sometimes
a small nut draped over a pebble. The belays were bomber, kind of, but not really.
Fun climb, although I would like to go back and climb the entire route
from the Vesper Glacier up. With no Ice Axes and crampons only, the Vesper
Glacier and it's moat in the late season posed quite a problem for us.
Although it did not look safe, the traverse from above the glacier was
a goat path and relatively safe with no snow. The climbing was good fun on nice granite. The upper dihedral was the most enjoyable. Looking around made me think there has to be many more routes around the main peak than what Becky states in his guidebook. Potential? Directions: From Seattle take I-5 North to Exit 194. Follow Highway 2 East for 2.3 miles, stay in left lane, go to Lake Stevens Highway 204 East, in 2.2 miles take left (north) on Highway 9 to Lake Stevens, in 1.7 miles take right (east) on Highway 92 to Granite Falls, in 8.4 miles turn left (north) to Mountain Loop Highway. Follow for about 30 miles to the Sunrise Mine Road on the right. Road dead ends in about 1 mile where parking is limited to one side of the road. Leave room for others to turn around. Trail Conditions: Click
Here Road Conditions: Click
Here Web References - Sverdina.com - RockClimbing.com - Mountainwerks.org - SummitPost.com
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